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If you’re like me with access to 1 1/2-in. or thicker wood slabs, you’ve got the makings for a classic wooden bar top.
Don’t have a slab? You can always laminate planks to get the width you need, or glue hardwood floorboards or something similar to a plywood backing.
A wood slab gives you the option of adding molding or not, since you can work the surface as needed to create spill troughs and leave the edges intact. That’s a real bonus if your slab features attractive live edges like mine does. Finish it off with epoxy resin to create a durable and attractive conversation piece.
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“A tap system sounds complicated,” says Dunning, of Plainfield, Illinois. “But it’s simple — mostly just running and connecting plastic tubing.”
At his bar, beer flows from kegs kept cold by a refrigerator in the next room propelled by CO2 pressure. Aside from the fridge, the system came as a kit that cost about $300.
Dunning recommends buying small kegs — five gallons is usually enough — because any beer you don’t use turns stale after a month or two and must be dumped down the drain. He also advises cleaning and flushing the system every six weeks. “This is mandatory,” he says. “If you’re not willing to do it, stick with bottled beer.”
Another tip: “Insulate the lines with pipe insulation and expanding foam,” Dunning says. “That keeps the beer cold and fully carbonated and prevents condensation from forming on the tubing and dripping inside walls. Also, install one more tap than you think you need. You’ll be glad you did.”
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If you build in taps, don’t forget the drip tray to catch overflow. You’ll need to make a recess (i.e. a hole) for it in the bar top. That might be challenging if you’re working with cultured or real stone, but it’s doable with a grinder.
If you have a steel countertop, just cut out a section of steel and make the recess in the plywood backing.
Stainless steel drip trays like this one aren’t expensive. They’re easy to find, and they’ll make your bar look that much more official.
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